| North America | |
| Mt. McKinley (Denali) | |
| Elevation: 20,320 feet / 6194 meters | |
| Optimal months to Climb: May and June are pretty much the only sane months to climb Mt. McKinley. In May, there is less concern for crevasses. In June, it is warmer but crevasses start to open up. | |
Number of Days to Climb: Between 14 and 21 days. Although you can climb McKinley in 14 days or less, I suggest allocating as many as 21 days to allow for bad weather. These safety net days could make the difference in a safe and successful summit. In many cases in June, there are climbers at the 14,000 foot camp that are more than happy to give you their extra food and fuel, so they don’t have to carry it down the mountain. |
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| Risks and Conditions: Mt. McKinley has just about every risk possible. The mountain’s proximity to the Arctic Circle can bring sudden and extreme weather and cold temperatures. Of course, if you move up too fast, the altitude can bring ACM (Acute Mountain Sickness), HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema), and HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema). Avalanches and glacier crevasses are concerns. This is why you need to be part of a rope team, and that requires you to climb at a steady pace. The mountaineering standard on McKinley is to carry all your own gear which can be easily over 100 lbs. This means you need to pull a sled (in addition to your pack) on the lower half of the mountain, and “double-carry” on the upper half of the mountain. Just as you need to prepare for cold weather, you also need to prepare for the hot sun reflecting off the snow and glacier. This means glacier goggles and bandanas are needed. | |
| Summary: If you attempt McKinley, you are now in the major leagues. | |
Qualifications: You need glacier travel experience: crampons, ice axe, rope knowledge. You should have other high altitude mountains under your belt. |
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| For more trip information: Contact John | |
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